How to Make Picture Frames: A Beginner's Guide

Have you ever stared at a photograph or piece of artwork and felt like its presentation just didn’t do it justice? So often, the perfect image gets lost in a generic, mass-produced frame. Creating your own picture frames allows you to not only showcase your cherished memories and art in a unique way but also to infuse your personal style into your home decor. A custom-made frame can elevate any piece, drawing the eye and perfectly complementing both the artwork and the surrounding space, turning a simple image into a stunning focal point.

Beyond the aesthetic appeal, crafting picture frames is a rewarding and accessible DIY project. It’s an opportunity to learn new skills, from precise measuring and cutting to elegant finishing techniques. This hands-on approach ensures a perfect fit for any size or style of art, allowing you to control every detail from the wood type and finish to the overall design. Plus, it can be a cost-effective alternative to purchasing expensive, pre-made frames, especially for non-standard sizes.

What materials will I need, and how do I get started?

What’s the easiest way to join the corners of a picture frame?

The easiest way to join the corners of a picture frame is by using a miter box and saw in combination with wood glue and corner clamps. This method provides a clean, accurate 45-degree cut for each corner, ensuring a tight and professional-looking joint with minimal fuss.

While a powered miter saw offers speed and precision, a manual miter box is more accessible and controllable for beginners. The miter box acts as a guide, ensuring the saw blade cuts at the correct 45-degree angle. After cutting each piece, a generous application of wood glue to the mitered surfaces is crucial. Corner clamps then hold the pieces firmly together while the glue dries, maintaining alignment and maximizing the strength of the bond. These clamps come in various forms, from simple plastic corner clamps to more sophisticated band clamps, and even specialized miter clamps, all designed to apply even pressure to the joint. The key to success with this method lies in the accuracy of the miter cuts and the proper application of glue and clamping pressure. Take your time when cutting to ensure smooth, consistent miters. When clamping, ensure that the corners are square and that the pressure is evenly distributed. After the glue has fully cured (typically 24 hours), the clamps can be removed, revealing a strong and well-aligned corner joint, ready for finishing.

What type of wood is best for making picture frames?

The best type of wood for making picture frames depends on the desired aesthetic, budget, and skill level of the framer. However, generally, softwoods like pine and basswood are excellent for beginners due to their workability and affordability, while hardwoods like maple, cherry, and walnut offer superior durability, beauty, and the ability to hold intricate details, making them ideal for higher-end or more elaborate frames.

While softwoods are easier to cut, sand, and join, they are more susceptible to dents and scratches, and may not hold fine details as sharply as hardwoods. Pine, being readily available and inexpensive, is often used for painted frames or frames where cost is a primary concern. Basswood is another great option for beginners, offering a fine, even grain that takes paint well and is easy to carve. Hardwoods, on the other hand, offer a more refined look and greater longevity. Maple is a popular choice due to its tight grain, hardness, and ability to accept stains evenly. Cherry provides a warm, reddish hue and ages beautifully over time. Walnut is prized for its rich, dark color and distinctive grain patterns, making it a top choice for displaying artwork where the frame itself is a feature. The higher cost and increased difficulty in working with hardwoods are often justified by the superior finished product. Consider the size and weight of the artwork you will be framing as well; larger, heavier pieces will benefit from the added strength of a hardwood frame.

How do I measure for the correct size glass and backing?

Measure the inside dimensions of the frame where the glass and backing will sit, and then subtract approximately 1/16" to 1/8" from each dimension. This slight reduction allows for easy insertion and removal of the contents without binding, accounting for minor imperfections in the frame itself.

Accurate measurement is crucial for a professional-looking result. Don’t assume the stated “picture size” of the frame matches the actual inner dimensions; always measure. Use a precise ruler or measuring tape, preferably with 1/16" or 1/32" increments. Measure the height and width of the rebate (the recessed area where the glass, artwork, and backing will sit) inside the frame from the back. It’s often helpful to measure in multiple locations to check for inconsistencies. The subtraction allowance (1/16" to 1/8") is cumulative, meaning you are subtracting that amount from *each* side. So, if the rebate measures 8" x 10", and you subtract 1/8" from each side, the glass and backing should be cut to 7 7/8" x 9 7/8". This seemingly small difference is critical to prevent the glass and backing from getting stuck and potentially damaging your artwork. It also ensures easy assembly and disassembly if you ever want to change the picture.

How can I create a distressed or aged look on my frame?

Creating a distressed or aged look on a picture frame is a fun and relatively simple process that involves techniques like layering paint, sanding, and applying antiquing glazes or waxes. The goal is to mimic the natural wear and tear that occurs over time, adding character and a vintage feel to your frame.

First, consider the base color you want to peek through the distressing. Apply this base coat evenly and let it dry completely. Next, apply a top coat in a contrasting color. This is the color that will be most prominent when the frame is finished. Once the top coat is dry, use sandpaper (various grits, starting with a coarser grit and moving to finer grits) to strategically sand away the top coat, revealing the base color underneath. Focus on areas that would naturally experience wear, such as edges, corners, and raised details. Don’t be afraid to experiment and create imperfections; it’s what makes the look authentic. For added depth and character, consider applying an antiquing glaze or wax. These products are designed to settle into crevices and add a shadowy, aged appearance. Apply the glaze or wax with a brush or cloth, and then immediately wipe away the excess with a clean cloth. The glaze or wax will remain in the recessed areas, highlighting details and creating a sense of age. You can also use techniques like dry brushing (applying a very small amount of paint with a stiff brush) or crackle medium to further enhance the distressed effect. Finally, seal your frame with a clear coat of varnish or sealant to protect the finish and prevent further wear. This is especially important if you’ve used a chalk paint or wax, which can be more fragile than other types of paint. Choose a matte or satin finish for a more authentic aged look.

What’s the best way to cut perfect 45-degree angles?

The best way to cut perfect 45-degree angles for picture frames is by using a miter saw, preferably one with digital angle readouts for increased accuracy. A high-quality miter saw, combined with precise measurements and careful technique, will consistently deliver clean, accurate cuts essential for tight, gap-free frame corners.

For consistent, accurate results, ensure your miter saw is properly calibrated. Before cutting, double-check the saw’s 45-degree setting using a precision square or a digital protractor. Even small deviations can accumulate across four cuts, leading to noticeable gaps in the finished frame. Furthermore, use a sharp blade designed for fine cuts in wood. A dull blade will tear the wood fibers, leaving a ragged edge that makes it difficult to achieve a tight joint. Carbide-tipped blades are a good choice for durability and clean cuts. When making your cuts, support the workpiece firmly against the saw’s fence to prevent movement during the cut. A zero-clearance insert on your miter saw can also help to reduce tear-out and improve cut quality. Cut just outside your marked line, then make a very slight cleanup cut to reach your precise dimension. This process helps minimize the chances of chipping or splintering the wood and ensures a perfect, smooth edge. Consider using a stop block clamped to your miter saw fence to accurately repeat cuts for all four frame pieces.

How do I prevent the wood from splitting when nailing or screwing?

The most effective way to prevent wood from splitting when nailing or screwing picture frames is to pre-drill pilot holes that are slightly smaller than the diameter of the nail or screw you’re using, especially when working with hardwoods or close to the edges of the wood.

Pre-drilling pilot holes creates a channel for the fastener, reducing the stress on the wood fibers as the nail or screw is driven in. This is particularly important when joining frame corners, as this area is susceptible to splitting due to the grain orientation and the proximity of the fastener to the end of the wood. Use a drill bit that’s slightly smaller in diameter than the shank of your nail or screw (the solid part of the screw body, not including the threads). For hardwoods, you may even want to go a bit larger with your pilot hole. Another helpful tip is to avoid hammering or screwing too close to the edge of the wood. Maintain a reasonable distance from the edge (ideally, at least the thickness of the wood itself). If you absolutely must fasten near the edge, pre-drilling is even more critical. Consider using blunted nails or self-tapping screws designed to minimize splitting, or choosing a softer wood species for your frames if possible. When screwing, apply steady, even pressure and avoid over-tightening, which can also contribute to splitting.

How do you safely and securely mount the picture inside the frame?

Safely and securely mounting a picture inside a frame involves a few key steps: preparing the artwork, selecting appropriate backing materials, using acid-free tapes or mounting corners, and securing everything in place with flexible points or glazier points. The goal is to prevent damage to the artwork while ensuring it stays firmly in position within the frame.

First, ensure your artwork is clean and free of dust or debris. Use a soft brush or microfiber cloth to gently wipe the surface. Then, choose acid-free materials for backing and mounting. Acidic materials can degrade artwork over time. A foam core or acid-free mat board provides a stable and protective backing. Next, position your artwork on the backing board. Archival-quality, acid-free tapes or mounting corners are preferred for attaching the picture. These are designed not to damage the artwork and allow for removal if needed. Avoid using permanent adhesives like glue, which can cause irreversible damage. Finally, insert the mounted artwork, backing board, and glazing (glass or acrylic) into the frame. Secure everything in place using flexible points or glazier points pushed into the frame rabbet (the recessed area). These points should be spaced evenly around the frame to apply consistent pressure and keep everything snug. For larger frames, consider using more points for extra security. Ensure the points are firmly embedded into the wood of the frame, but not so deep that they damage the artwork or backing. A point driver tool makes this process much easier and more consistent. Inspect the final product to ensure the artwork is centered and well-secured before hanging.

And there you have it! You’re now equipped to create beautiful, personalized picture frames. Hopefully, this guide sparked some creativity and made the process feel a little less daunting. Thanks for reading, and happy framing! Feel free to pop back anytime for more DIY projects and creative inspiration.